Butterick 6351 done!
I made the longish dress version (with the bottom band) and changed a lot of it on the way (and am still planning on adding a dart when I get home!
I didn't do a real muslin, but I did baste the main pieces together
since I suspected I'd have serious issues with how this design would
look with my slightly stiff cotton batik fabric. Looking at the other
reviews, I wasn't alone! In my case, I chose to completely recut the
skirt portion, using a pencil skirt pattern I had and leaving just a
tiny bit of ease at the top so that it still made some sense to have
elastic in the skirt. Fortunately, the original skirt piece was just a couple of huge rectangles, so I had plenty of room to make a darted version. The dirndl style would probably work with a much more fluid fabric. In my case, it looked like an uncomfortable paper bag!
I also was aghast at the position of the waist, so
I chose to add a wider band to both the front and back portion of the
dress. This also allowed me a slightly wider design element for the
elastic in the back, so I made about 5 channels and stitched down a bit
of elastic in all of them. This makes the dress WAY cozy around the
waist, like one of those smocked ones you can get. I'd already overdyed a
bit of the fabric to use as a darker bottom band, so this just
complemented that. Looking at the photos, I don't really like the way the turtles are cut off and wish I'd found a coordinating plain fabric instead. Ah well.
I didn't follow their instructions for assembling the bodice - I sewed
it like you'd normally sew a lined bodice, leaving the armholes free,
turned and finished the whole thing and then just topstitched the flaps
at the shoulders. I also ended up topstitching the back side bits to my
waistband instead of their slightly more finished, but very fiddly,
approach. I hand-picked the zipper since that is my new favorite
approach, but have a bit of a mismatch at the waist seam. The crazy
print in my fabric is reasonably forgiving.
After all that, I'm wearing it today and feel over-exposed, so I'm
planning to take a small tuck in the bottom of each of the back flaps,
and may just stitch the opening closed all the way. I've got a couple
paperclips on there right now (and a sweater, since this isn't really an
appropriate back design for work!) to test it out.
Front:
Back:
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