satin - ugh!

I knew that my choice of burgundy satin for a couple of my tops was a bit risky, and I wasn't wrong! I just finished off my sleeveless top (pictures to follow), and am not 100% happy with it.

I cut a 12 of the version with 4 pleats in the front, as well as satin bias strips to use in place of the purchased bias strips they recommended.

1: the pleats puckered quite a bit, despite the fact that they actually were sewn even more uniformly than I'd hoped (given the satin). They just looked icky. I stitched them down and that looks a lot better, even though it puckers a bit.

2: I stitched binding to the neckline and armholes, turned it all to the inside and then topstitched. I might turn it to the outside next time since the inside looks a little better than the outside! The bias strips seem to pucker a little bit less than the on-grain satin. I used a brand new needle, but there is probably more adjustment that could be made in terms of tension. Or I could sew it on my serger.

3: This particular pattern had a button-up back with facings. No way. I stitched the back closed up to 3" below the neckline, turned the seam allowance inwards on itself and topstitched either side all the way up to the neck. I've done this treatment before on satin backs and like it.

Now I just need to add a hook/eye closure at the top. I thought I may have to add a zipper to the side to get it on and off, but there is enough ease that I can throw the whole thing over my head without any problem. My pleats were sewn a bit smaller than drafter, which made the front a bit wider- I'll have to be careful for my next, pleat-less version.

On the AC jacket - I've done the back and one of the side fronts. That means 5 more body pieces and 4 sleeve pieces to go, all around the same size. I'm going at a little less than 1 week per piece, and have a cross-country flight in a couple weeks, so I think I'm on schedule. I am afraid that I'll run out of strips for the couching, however. My current plan is to cannibalize the lower layer from the skirt pieces that I cut out. I can always dye some more fabric a different color for the skirt - I'd planned on doing reverse applique anyway, so having a slightly different color would be nice.