Friday, September 2, 2016

BurdaStyle 114, Plastron blouse (2016 July)

My next project is the BurdaStyle Plastron blouse and skirt, as shown in the July 2016 version:


However, I'm a normal human, so there is no way I'm making a white skirt (I say that, but I really do want a white skirt).  I'm swapping the color order somewhat and chose a blush-colored linen for the blouse (Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen, same used in my white V1440 blouse) and a stretch olive denim at fabric.com for the skirt (Marlow denim, green).  The denim has a bunch of rayon in it and, unexpectedly has a very subtle irridescence to it that I like a lot.  The color changes just a little depending on which angle you are looking at.  It might work very well for this skirt.



The "plastron" part of it is a lot of fun.  You make 14 tubes of various lengths, turn and press them (I chose to press with the seam right in the middle, since the fabric is slightly translucent and it shows a bit), then weave them together.  You are supposed to fuse all of this to a wash-out interfacing, but I didn't have any and thought I could work around it.

Woven:


Pinned, taped, and hand-sewn - the tape works the best - then sewn to the front





Note that I clearly messed up at that curved corner a bit- the seam on the shirt front side is too far into the seam allowance by just a smidge, resulting in more fabric and a bit of bubbling.  I'm going to pin it onto myself when I get home tonight - a quick try-on actually looked like it was BETTER than if it were flat, since the extra fabric was just at my bust point.  Of course, I'd need to be able to replicate this "mistake" on the 2nd side. 

Also note -it's pretty important to not catch the edges of the "free" woven strips in that top vertical straight seam.  That's a bit difficult, since that part is sandwiched inside as you sew and you can't see it all that well.  I machine-basted first and got it right where i wanted, then did the final sewing.  The topstitching helps everything lie a bit flatter as well.



My daughter has been decorating my sewing area for me.
 

2 comments:

  1. I appreciate detailing the strip weaving process -- good move on the tape! I have been interested in this blouse, even though I don't have this issue; I may use this technique on a different pattern. The wrinkling after washing is a bit annoying, I am sure, but still looks nice. (And I also want a white skirt, even though I am also a normal human -- what's with that?!)

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    1. Thanks! I'll probably do the woven strips again somewhere as well. Perhaps on a pocket?

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