My fabric has arrived, and I'm really glad that I went to the expense of actually ordering the full pattern rather than just winging it to capture the overall look. I've never used a vintage Vogue Paris Originals pattern, and it has a bunch of details that I'm enjoying. The dress comes in two parts - an underdress and the overdress, both attached at the neckline and an opening at the shoulder. Each dress has a zipper. I thought about keeping the underdress free so that I could wear it on its own, but gave up on that and am just following the instructions.
The sheath underdress is a new one for me - it has SO many darts! Fisheye darts at the waist on the back and front, shoulder darts, bust darts, and a central bust dart in front, AND a lower back dart. I sewed them all just as is, straight off the pattern, and it fits surprisingly well! I bought the size 16 pattern since that is what was available and expected to need to size down a bit - I'm normally a size 12 in the chest and 14 in the hips in Vogue. But this is pretty snug around the hips! I'm not going to try and size down the bodice either. The upper layer is so drapey, I don't think I need to be in a sausage casing. I still need to follow through on my promise to myself that I'll make a real fitting sheath at some point.
I even went more vintage and have been trimming my seam allowances with my pinking shears instead of zigzaging.
The upper layer, at least in this version, is a lightweight denim shirting fabric from Kaufman. I like it since it resists wrinkles pretty well for a cotton, and has a nice dark navy with a bit of texture. I actually had a hard time deciding between that and a textured blue/white houndstooth from the same line, even though I knew that the extra pattern would not be ideal, so I ended up buying both. I'll be using the second fabric to make a copy of the full McCalls pocketed skirt with a yoke that I wear almost nonstop in the summer.
Union Chambray for upper layer:
Houndstooth chambray, for future skirt.